Roanoke Vineyards

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Over the Barrel

Over The Barrel
With Lenn Thompson

Things Are Ramping Up at Roanoke Vineyards Inc.

When Rich and Soraya Pisacano opened their Roanoke Vineyards tasting room in the fall of 2004 the only Roanoke-labeled wine was a stellar 2000 merlot that is, sadly, long gone.

What started with that lone merlot, has grown into an impressive portfolio of wines, including two distinctly different Bordeaux-style blends, a hard-to-find cabernet sauvignon, a fresh-but-intriguing chardonnay and an extremely popular rosé.

Rich has been tending vines on Long Island since high school and despite the push for merlot on Long Island, he prefers cabernet sauvignon. And, with one of the western-most vineyards on the North Fork, his unique microclimate makes it a bit easier to ripen the king of all red grapes. Red wines are definitely the focus at Roanoke Vineyards and that drive and passion is abundantly clear in each of their limited-edition wines.

Roanoke Vineyards 2005 De Rosa Rose ($14)
is an extremely popular blend of cabernet franc, merlot, cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay in Roanoke’s rustic, inviting tasting room. Salmon colored in the glass, its nose and palate display the ripeness of the 2005 vintage with intense strawberry aromas. While not bone dry, this well balanced rose shows nice balance between ripe red berry flavors, acidity and subtle sweetness. The finish features a refreshing lime note.

Roanoke’s first white wine release is their 2005 Chardonnay ($17). 60% barrel fermentation brings freshness while 40% fermentation in barrel brings depth and a softness. Refreshing apple and Asian pear aromas lead to a well balance palate that blends apple and melon flavors with richer, more tropical notes. Nice acidity brings balance to this wine and makes it perfect for summer drinking. This is a style that I prefer to over-manipulated, oaky chardonnay any day.

First and foremost, Roanoke is about reds, and while you may not be able to get your hands on their rich, cellar-worthy 2003 cabernet sauvignon, Pisacano’s 2003 cabernet fruit is on display in Roanoke Vineyards’ 2003 Blend One ($30) a Meritage-style blend of 48% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 22% cabernet franc. Rich and ripe especially for a not-so-great year, the nose is highlighted by intense black berry and black cherry aromas with violet wisps and peppery spice. Full bodied and rich, intense fruit flavors are balanced by oak, fine tannins and a lengthy finish. Drinking well now, this wine probably hasn’t peaked yet. Roth made this wine for the long haul. Stock your cellar.

Very few wineries produce multiple Meritage-style wines, but Roanoke Vineyards’ 2003 Blend Two ($36) – named purely because it was the second blend – certainly doesn’t play second fiddle to its big brother blend one. Cabernet franc (48%) dominates this blend with 32% cabernet sauvignon and 20% merlot added to the final wine. Extremely aromatic – because of the cabernet franc – violets, berry fruit and vanilla oak intermingle in a tempting nose. Slightly lighter bodied, this blend is still concentrated and rich with berries, plums and spice. Also well suited to some cellar time, this wine might be closer to its peak.

Rich and Soraya still pour Wolffer wines in their tasting room, but their wines are clearly the focus and well they should be. If you join the wine club, you might even be able to buy some of their 2000 merlot or 2003 cabernet. That in and of itself makes it well worth it.

Lenn Thompson is a contributing writer for Dan’s Papers. Email him at lenn@lenndevours.com with questions or comments.