“Brooklyn Uncorked,” at the Brooklyn Academy of Music, allows the public to compare the styles of Long Island wineries— 30 this year. Sponsors of the tasting, on May 14, included the LongIsland Wine Council and Edible East End and Edible Brooklyn, sisterpublications.
Roanoke Vineyards’ wines stood out. Roanoke does not have its own winery; Richard Pisacano, Wölffer Estate’s vineyard manager, provided the grapes, and Roman Roth, Wölffer’s winemaker, did the rest. The lean 2007 chardonnay ($18) was brisk; a pink 2007 named DeRosé ($16) was delicately fruity; the red 2004 Blend One ($30), delectable.
Paumanok’s 2007 chenin blanc was awash in tropical-fruit flavors,but overpriced at $28. Palmer’s 2007 refined sauvignon blanc ($16.99)was world-class. Castello di Borghese’s 2007 version ($18) was rich andsavory.
Christiano Family Vineyards’ ingratiating 2006 chardonnay was redolent of pears and apple pie. It was made at the Premium Wine Group, a for-hire winery in Mattituck, and costs $16.99 at the Tasting Room, in Peconic.
Riesling is a specialty of the Peconic Bay Winery. The off-dry 2005 ($18) delivers an agreeable peach-and-apricot flavor.
Among the reds, Lieb’s 2003 reserve merlot($24) was a winner. The fruit is almost exuberant, the smoky bouquetattractive. Scarola Vineyards’s 2004 merlot, named Masseria — inItalian, an ancient farmhouse — showed inviting hints of aprune-and-raisin compote, herbs and tobacco notes; some cabernet francheightens the blend.
Scarola’s dark, gutsy 2005 Masseria merlot was more interesting. Both, made by Mr. Roth at Wölffer, cost $16.95.
Nature often foils North Fork pinot noir growers, and when the wine succeeds, they want a reward. Ron GoerlerJr., Jamesport Vineyards’ general manager, called 2005 “a gloriousyear.” That year’s pinot costs $44.95.
